Acting-Modeling-Narration-Voice overs-Tokyo-book-by-Marinerblue.com

An introduction to the Modeling Industry

Articles >> Article

This article is primarily concerned with Modeling, however some of the information is relevant to us. A lot of the auditons will also have contract models at them, so it pays to do some homework.

By Pablo

It used to be that ONLY foreign models with blonde hair and blue eyes worked successfully in Tokyo. This, thankfully, is no longer the case. Although still predominantly a "white" market, a strong trend to becoming more multicultural is what this industry seems to be heading towards.

In this section, we'll take a look at the measurements and features generally expected from models to possess in Japan. By no means is this the last word on the subject. Take it as a guide that's based on a great number of past successes. In any case, for all men and women, great smiles are the ultimate asset, for the Tokyo market is about as commercial as they come.

For women, skin condition is extremely important. It is probably the number one thing clients look for in models; clean, smooth skin. And, generally speaking, the whiter the better. (Hint: stay out of the sun.) Hair is preferred straight or with a slight wave, so make any necessary adjustments if you have to. Longer hair promotes versatility, although there are plenty of whom that work well with shorter hair. As for color, stick with blonde to dark brown and leave any shades of red at home.

Measurements
(The following is the general range most models fall into. During show season (March-April & Sept-Oct) taller girls are considered.

Height: 5'7" (170cm) to 5'10" (178cm)
Bust: below 35.5" (90cm) and no larger than a "B" cup.
Waist: below 25.0" (64cm)
Hips: below 35.5" (91cm)

The reason for these particulars is simple; the model must be able to fit into Japanese sized clothing! These are not big people were talking about here, so size is important and many times as important than the model's actual look. And age? Well, some girls arrive to Tokyo as young as 14 but most are between 17 and 24.

For guys, a clean-shaven face, strong jaw-line, neatly styled hair (that's not too long), a trim body (not too hairy!) and a solid book are what count. The look is not "hard" (although sometimes required). Normally a clean, nice-guy and "handsome" type of image is what's sought after. Popular roles are 'the teen', 'the boyfriend', 'the young father' and the classic 'businessman'. Ages vary from 17 to late 20s and early 30s.

Measurements
(The following is the general range most models fall into. During show season (March-April & Sept-Oct) taller guys are considered.

Height: 5'11" (180cm) to 6'2" (188cm)
Chest: below 39" (100cm)
Waist: around 32" (81cm) or below
Hips: below 38.5" (98cm)
For the "sweet" and "innocent" segment of the market, agencies unleash their young, fresh girls to compete for on-the-cover honors of numerous teen magazines and comic books. The Japanese absolutely adore "cute", so this part of the industry will always be in demand. BIG MONEY, however, is also made in tv commercials, posters and in the seemingly infinite amount of catalogues.

Nowadays, to win jobs such as these depends largely on portfolios and auditions. Tokyo has become very competitive and although it is quite refreshing to know that it is way more open to new and different looks, the importance of proving yourself worthy at a casting, cannot be over-emphasized. For more information on developing the right portfolio and preparing for castings in Japan see....

Castings are an important segment of the business, since it is here where jobs are either won or lost. This section will discuss how castings are generally conducted in Japan without, however, getting too specific.

For nearly all castings, models will be accompanied by a manager. The manager's job is to lead the group of models to the casting, present each one individually to the client and hopefully land a booking. "The client" is often comprised of a group of four to six people, but can grow to sums of twenty or more. It can be a little intimidating, but it is usually such an incredibly polite atmosphere, with lots of bowing and smiling going on, that it's no big deal after a while.

Japanese people aren't normally too comfortable with English (despite the fact they study the language throughout elementary and high school) so the whole session is carried out in Japanese. The model sits down next his or her manager at the opposite side of a table and usually faces "the leader" of the group. The manager then proceeds to yap away to the client discussing the model's particulars, while the model normally just sits and waits patiently.

If the model is at all normal he or she would want to know what actually gets said during these interviews. Well, generally clients will expect answers to the following questions:

Age of the model?
Nationality of the model?
The model's measurements?
How long they've been modelling?
Ethnic background of the model?
Where they've modelled?
If they've ever been to Japan before?
If so, how many times?
And that's normally about enough information. The book and the model do the rest of the talking, even if nothing ever gets said! A model's body language, clothing and general conduct at the casting often speak mountains more than words, which is why special attention must be focused on recognizing this silent aspect of the game.

Frustrating? Yes, of course it is, but this how things proceed unless of course the model happens to speak a little Japanese. In which case, a whole new game is played.

Castings for tv and film are conducted slightly different because a little role-play is normally involved. There is still a manager present, but in addition models will be asked to state their name, nationality and age to the video camera, after which an acting task will be assigned. (English is the expected language used by the way.)

Roles clients look for in foreign models vary enormously, but the emotions are all pretty much the same. Happy, sad, surprised, dissapointed and flat-out angry. Master these and reap the rewards of a nice pay cheque, for nothing pays better than a commercial job. Which is definitely worth keeping in mind...

Finally, never underestimate the importance of your book!

Probably the single biggest reason why western models are used extensively in advertising is posing. Japanese people, when placed in front of the camera are generally a little stiff, lacking the spontaneity, comfort and range that are invaluable in the makeup of a professional model.

So when a Japanese client examines a models portfolio a few very simple qualities are looked out for:

Does the model possess the right look for the job?
Does the model demonstrate a range of different looks and poses in the portfolio?
Are there plenty of clear photos of the models face and full body?
How much experience (tear sheets) does the model have?
Does the model appear professional?
There really isn't a whole lot one can do in this department if the client is looking for someone with blonde hair and blue eyes and the model possesses darker features... oh well, better luck next time! For the most part, however, a job's image is left undecided and it's up to the model at the casting to demonstrate that they are suitable for the task at hand. And the portfolio, more than ever in Japan, is a model's single most important tool to get this message across.

Let's take a peak at what elements make up a winning portfolio in Japan...

The stereotypical Japanese person is quiet, shy, hard-working and loves to take photographs. (Having lived in Japan for 3 years, I'd say it's quite true, mind you I have met plenty that disprove this image entirely!) Nevertheless, the point is quiet and shy don't usually cut it in the modelling business. What does sell, and what the Japanese find particularly alluring is the range of emotion and feeling professional western models can deliver behind a camera.

So portfolios that show the model going from incredibly happy to terrifyingly angry, from soft and innocent to cocky and cute, demonstrate to the client that any pose is possible. And for Japan there is no stronger selling point. The more range a model has in the book, the more professional he or she becomes thus increasing the chances of the booking a job significantly.

This is a common element lacking in most portfolios I am presented with. Not enough photos of the model shown in full body. Remember, a large portion of high paying jobs in Japan come in the form of catalogues and although not usually very complimentary, nearly all of the shots will show the model in full length. So include at least 6 poses from head to toe in the book. And make it clear! Complex lighting and shadows only confuses and annoys Japanese clients.

This also goes for head shots. Photos that clearly show your skin condition, your eyes, (your face in general) is always better than placing emphasis on hiding "any flaws" you might have. No one model is perfect - honest, interesting, well-compositioned photos are appreciated and rewarded in Japan.

Oh and for ladies include a few shots with your hair tied back. Japanese faces are generally larger and rounder so they don't normally pull their hair back because it only accentuates these features. They find this ability quite attractive. And profile! Believe it or not, noses are a big deal in Japan. A nose that sticks out a bit is "cool" , so (girls AND guys) be sure to have more than just a couple photos of your profile (and 3/4) in the portfolio.

It used to be that a model with 6 photos in her book and almost no experience could come to Tokyo, work for 2 months straight and leave the city with a great big fistful of yen. Well, times have changed. Nowadays, the climate is a lot more competitive - girls and guys with sensational books are having a difficult time even being invited to Japan, let alone working successfully. Japanese clients have become a great deal more discerning and now demand that the model have a solid amount of experience under his of her belt.

Tear sheets help. Having work that you've done included in your portfolio will place you in a much better position. But it's not the end all and be all on the subject. Having a collage of polaroids of work you've done at the of the book can work just as well or even better. Always ask yourself - "Does my portfolio show that I have experience behind the camera and that I can handle any situation presented to me?" If it does...fine. If not...TEST MORE!

My final recommendation is on my favourite subject - professionalism. Being a professional model in Japan is having a portfolio with range and experience and a serious, confident attitude along side it. Be courteous, never complain, never be late and give 100% at all times. It goes a very long way in this country.